Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always defined its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and carts – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
